Update: Improving rigidity….

December 7th, 2009

So upgrading the thickness of the rods we were using made an amazing difference in the rigidity of the axis. The ¼ inch rods we were using tested fine with the smaller carcass – but introduced an exponential error with increasing length.

The other thing we are experimenting with is adding pillow blocks to reinforce the glue joints. It really secures the strengths of the joints and mating points of the different parts of the mill.

Mill update

Mill update

The combination of the blocks and the thicker rods should really let us start working through testing all the other parts of the mill. Kind of excited.

Experimenting with toaster oven reflow

October 26th, 2009

Increasingly newer chips are only available in packages that are designed to be solder reflowed. There are a lot of tutorials and web pages out there where people describe ways that they have managed to reflow at home. The best I have seen is probably sparkfun’s tutorials which talk about their experiences with a number of techniques including trying to use a toaster oven for reflowing.

After looking at a lot of tutorials and blog postings about people’s experiences I opted to try reflow soldering using a toaster oven. Probably my favorite tutorial on reflowing using a toaster oven was published online by the Seattle Robotics Society.

Even after reading all of the tutorials I could lay my hands on I still had a lot of questions. Since I prototype out of a home lab my biggest question was if I could use lead free products in a toaster oven since they have a higher melting point by about 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

We purchased a convection toaster oven. They are slightly more expensive but the convection’s circulation of the air in the oven should allow for a more uniform heating of the parts. For the solder past I used SnAgCu lead free past from CHIPQUICK.

The first test just used some solder past on a piece of PCB to test the reflow profile. Just for kicks we tossed on a chip resistor to see how the past would flow around it.

Reflow test on a bare PCB

Reflow test on a bare PCB

Initially the results looked very nice – but with the solder reflowing at a much lower temperature than initially expected.

A friend who was over at the house during testing pointed out that we were shooting an IR temperature gun through the glass front of the toaster oven to record temperature – and that if the glass was slightly IR opaque it could impact the readings. We tested at cold temperatures and the IR gun seemed to work fine. However the error caused by the glass seems to increase with temperature. Unfortunately it took a while to realize just what was going on.

The results from the initial test looked promising enough to try reflowing an actual board. The test boards were the $33 each boards from Advanced circuits. I highly recommend their service. We tried reflowing a MSP430 in an IDW package.

Reflow test of an MSP430 board from PCB express

Reflow test of an MSP430 board from PCB express

The maximum thermal heating rate for the MSP we were testing with was 2 degrees Celsius per second and the toaster oven seemed well below that. So we initially set the temperature dial to 320 degrees to heat and soak the board – then turned the temperature up to ramp up temperature and reflow.

This reflow is when we learned just how much hotter things were getting inside the oven. The boards blackened and suddenly started bubbling an up a black goop and out gassing a horrible smell. I think a friend put it best when he said “ if that board was a pizza – that stuff would be the cheese”. We opened the doors in the shop to help with ventilation but man it stinks. Initially I thought the toaster oven reflow might be a wash until we hit the inside of the oven with the temperature gun and found the temperature significantly over our target.

Burnt board

Burnt board

Most of the discoloration seems to have occurred in the part of the board in the center of the oven – so it may well be that even with convection there are significant hot and cold spots on the board. That or all the VIAs on the left side of the board prevented the bubbling.

Cooling time measured both through glass and with door open

Cooling time measured both through glass and with door open

Once we figured out that the temperature gun did not work so well through the glass we decided to take multiple readings as the board cooled to try and gauge the delta of temperature between readings through the glass and those taken with the door open. As you can see the difference at higher temperatures was extreme.

For the third test we repeated our ramping up the temperature – testing outside the glass and then turning off the heating of the board 60 seconds after the solder paste visibly glassed and turned liquid. We did not open the door during heating as the regular inrush of cold air would likely have introduced errors of its own. Measurements taken during the cooling cycle for the third test seem to indicate that at its peak there is over a 200 degree difference in internal and external temperatures.

Reflow profile - test number 2

Reflow profile - test number 2

The solution to the heating problems seems to be using a temperature sensor inside the oven like the SRS tutorial suggests. Cooling is still an unknown problem as we need to bring the board temperatures down at a controlled rate.

Paste application test

Paste application test

The next thing we wanted to look at was hot to apply the solder past. Most tutorials seem to use a bead of past over the pads – but they also have shorting problems. So we tried using a bead of solder paste vrs smearing the paste over the pads. Both sides came out amazingly well – but with a few solder bridges to clean up – so it is still to early to tell which approach works better.

Status update

August 28th, 2009

Wow, time sure can fly. In the last month we mostly chipped away at all the very non sexy parts of starting a new company – most of which I wont be posting about here. We are excited that it looks like we may be bringing on a real mechanical engineer – which should make all our products better.

In terms of our mills the work of the last month went into the new electronics. Again nothing very sexy to talk about – we just decided to split the design over two boards and change a bunch of connectors and a few parts.

The reason for all the changes is because we found having everything all on one board – while cheaper to build – leads to a huge bundle of wires all terminating in a tight space. This in turn leads to unpredictable stresses on the wires as things are initially installed. We were worried about failure in the field due to this stress on the wires so we split the design into a motor driving board and a controller board. So far we are fairly happy with the new design – it is easier to assemble and debug. Looking forward to what the next round of testers have to say.

We also decided to use slightly more expensive screw post connectors to help ensure the electronics could be easily installed or swapped out for future upgrades. Even simple soldering patches are the definition of not fun once the units are together. The new connectors should also enable us to send out upgrade or repair modules if needed.

So the good news is things are really starting to speed up again – so we should be running another round of testing soon. We will be contacting people who asked to be beta testers when we are ready – and posting content describing how the test were going here.

Status update for the new mills

July 9th, 2009

So we got the new larger carcass back in June. Since then we have kept fairly busy. Testing has lead to 24 minor fixes and tweaks to the design and counting. For those of you who expressed interest in being Beta testers but were not contacted by us yet – we will be doing another round of testing in a few weeks. At that time we will be emailing everyone who contacted us about being beta testers as well as posting the call on our blog and elsewhere. The next round of testing should be very close to what we will start selling. At this point the mechanical and case design are locked in – but we are updating the electronics to aid in ventalation and assembly.

A visit from the vice presidend of getting stuff done…

July 9th, 2009

So the other day I hit a big low – I had 4 CNC mills in the house and not one was working! They were all in pieces either being built, or upgraded. So when my friend Joel – (A.K.A the vice president of getting sh*t done) – and I got together for hanging out and beers it actually turned into getting my big mill’s CNC conversion finally up and running.  Since my friends first helped me pick up the mill a little over a year ago it was way over due.

Joel setting up the temporary brackets

Joel setting up the temporary brackets

To get things going we built a set of wooden mounting brackets and clamped them to the mill. Now that it is running the first thing I need to cut out are a set of real brackets – but it will be easier then making the brackets from metal by hand. I had knocked up a set of wood brackets a while ago and Joel was polite enough not to mention that they looked like they were made by a crazed beaver. Joel did some strategic sawing – and filing – and cutting – and well making some new parts while I soldered.  I felt horrible. Did I mention that he could not even have any beer since he was racing this weekend and was in training?. Yeah, I know how to show my friends a good time – luckily they are all died in the wool geeks.

Temporary Y bracket

Temporary Y bracket

Here you can see the motor brackets clamped in place and supporting the motors. The motors are strong enough to flex the wood frames so until I cut metal mount plates the mill needs to be run slowly – but this setup has worked remarkably well so far. Now all I have to do is clean up the wiring and start cutting new brackets.  Then we can *finally* start using the mill for automated production of parts in house. Kind of geeky but I like the idea of using a large CNC mill to make little ones.

Anyone looking for a mill larger and stronger then Purple Crayons products ( Hey, it weighs in at over 900 Lbs as compared to our 10!) I would definitely recommend the g3102 if you have the money and the space. The only other online information I know of  is over at www.cnczone.com. The setup described there is nice but after Joel was making fun of my loosing the handles last winter I opted for this design with the motors folded under the ways. When considering a g3102 I would also recommend checking out the postings at www.benchtest.com. That site has excellent posts covering both cleaning and setting up the mill as well as adding third party features to it.

New carcass is finally here!

June 17th, 2009
The last few weeks everyone has had to juggle non-company things so it has taken us a little longer to verify the changes to the mill than we had anticipated. Still, the new design is finally here and assembled. It is a lot larger than the older design. In the picture below you can see one of the carcasses for the old design sitting atop the new – larger design.
The old carcuss sitting atop the new

The old carcass sitting atop the new

Now that the new design is verified we will post more pictures and information soon.

Production update

May 16th, 2009

We just heard back from the vendor doing our laser cutting. We are getting a single set of parts cut for the latest design – once we have them assembled we plan on getting a run made for our Beta testers. Best guess estimate is that Beta units will be going out in about a week and a half.

We decided to re-work how the tool height zeroing and limit switch mechanisms work. Which was the last major change we wanted to do – so it looks like the version being Beta tested will be very close to what we will end up selling. We will be posting pictures here next week as we assemble the new design.

Fixing the down feed collet

May 16th, 2009

Ok, so Joel pointed out that in my earlier post about setting up the Grizzley G3102 mill I kind of didn’t mention his fixing my mill. Honestly it completly slipped my mind!

Joel - I am not leaving until I see that mill cut something!

Joel - I am not leaving until I see that mill cut something!

Some of the G3102s shipped with a slightly under machined downfeed collet. People with this problem have suggested all sorts of crazy ways to fix the problem. My personal favorite – which is even advocated by Grizzley when you call their tech support – is to wrap a stick with sand paper and jam it into the running spindle to wear down the high spot. No joke. Joel looked at the problem and said – Why don’t we use a break hone?

Cheap break hone used to fix the down feed collet

Cheap break hone used to fix the down feed collet

It took two of them to bring down the inside diameter enough. We used cheap ones that were only $3 each. If any of you are trying this fix at home it avoids wearing down the collet alignment nub. So I am very happy with this hack.

Specification for using Cassius as a mill?

April 23rd, 2009

There have been several inquires about specs for Cassius when used as a mill – so a general posting seemed in order.

In anticipation for Beta testing the mill just underwent a lot of changes. Each axis was grown by a few inches and a bunch of little things identified in early testing were fixed. We switched vendors for the laser cut parts and are currently waiting to get a quote from a laser cutting vendor to make sure there are no problems producing the new larger design. Should be soon. We are committed to no vaporware – so we wont post specs from our SolidWorks models alone. Instead, we are waiting until we have one of the new designs running will post specs measured off a running mill.

Also, all the pictures on the web site are of our current run of prototypes. We deliberately kept the number of shots of the new design to a minimum. Our plan is to post a number of detailed photos of the new design with the specifications. To be honest though, we only spray painted our current prototypes to easily color-code them with revisions (black box, blue box, red box, etc,). So another part of the reason we have been waiting on getting the new mills to go nuts with photos is we want to take pictures of one with a decent paint job.

Once we get some of the new version built there are also plans for destructive testing of a few mills testing rigidity, wear, glue strength, drop testing, and just generally trying to measure what it takes to break them. Up until now we have not had any real problems – but then we have been working with the units as prototypes and not doing things like intentionally dropping them on the floor. After destructive testing we plan on updating the specs again to reflect the results the tests, and add suggestions of worst-case usage.

What will this thing cut?

April 23rd, 2009

Mounting the flex shaft of a rotary tool, or the tool itself, to the mill provides a surprisingly high quality high-speed cutting spindle for cutting PCB boards, wood, and plastics. However we will be advising our customers to not cut metals with Cassius.

For soft materials like wood or plastic mills can cut the part out in two types of cutting passes; roughing passes and then smoothing passes. The roughing passes remove most of the raw material down to within some close distance to the final finished part. The smoothing passes are slower removing much less material and cutting the part to the final desired shape and smooth surface finish.

To be able to cut even “soft” metals like brass, aluminum, or softer steels – smaller mills need to break the cutting up into a much higher number of smaller passes. Essentially there is no roughing pass – just a really long smoothing passes. So if the user wants to cut out a one inch thick piece from a block of aluminum, with an aggressive (for a small mill) cut depth of 2/1000th of an inch – it still takes 500 passes to cut out the part. Even if the overall part size is fairly small and it only takes an average of thirty seconds per pass – the part will still take over four hours to cut out! It is not uncommon for parts cut from metal on a small mill to take many hours to cut out. Cutting the same part out of even the densest plastics or woods can usually be accomplished in a tiny fraction of that time.

Now imagine running a Dremel or other rotary tool in an apartment or dorm for over four hours straight. Chances are if your neighbors did not kill you your roommates or spouse would! In light of that the whole angry mob scenario – cutting metal seemed a lot less important and we focused on other features instead.